Over the past several years I have begun designing my own costumes and having them made by various talented seamstresses and other individuals.
From Greek chitons to tunics and himations, to children's robes, capes (called birrus britanicus with a hood called a cucullus), all costumes are made using choice materials. This ensures the look of authentic clothing rather than costume. Aesthetics are most important to me. I consider the type of fabric that would have been worn at a particular time and I consider the quality of the drape.
In the photo below, a child wears a tunic sewn from coarse linen. On occassion for model shoots, I will use a spray bottle to dampen the fabric slightly, thus relaxing the folds.